Quick answer
For the front of a house, good ornamental grasses are generally tidy clump-formers that stay a manageable size and look good through several seasons. Compact choices such as blue fescue, dwarf fountain grass and little bluestem work near paths and windows, while upright grasses such as feather reed grass or switchgrass suit the back of a bed or corners. Pick based on sun, space and your climate rather than on looks alone. For layouts and more plant ideas, see ornamental grasses for the front of the house.
Choose by size and position
Think about three things before buying:
- Sun: Most ornamental grasses want full sun (about six hours or more a day). A few, such as Japanese forest grass and some sedges, handle part shade.
- Mature size: Check the height and spread on the tag. Allow roughly the mature spread between plants and keep tall grasses away from windows, walkways and house walls.
- Soil and water: Good drainage matters more than rich soil. Most low-water grasses suit the dry strip along a foundation or driveway.
Good picks by height
Sizes are approximate and vary by cultivar.
Low, for edges and under windows
- Blue fescue (Festuca glauca): a neat blue mound about a foot tall. If clumps start thinning in the middle, see why blue fescue dies in the center.
- Dwarf fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Little Bunny’, ‘Hameln’): soft plumes, with ‘Little Bunny’ about a foot tall and ‘Hameln’ about two to three feet.
- Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra): for shady entrances, a cascading golden or green mound around 1 to 1.5 feet.
- Sedges (Carex): such as ‘Evergold’ or ‘Everillo’, good for part shade and containers. Compare them in the best carex varieties for shade.
Medium, for the main bed
- Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium): upright, blue-green and fiery in fall. Compare cultivars in little bluestem varieties.
- Pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris): a fall cloud of pink flowers in warmer regions. See how to grow pink muhly grass.
- Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis): fine-textured mound with golden fall color.
- Dwarf maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Adagio’): about 3 to 4 feet tall. Miscanthus can be invasive in some regions, so check local guidance first.
Tall, for corners and backdrops
- Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’): narrow, upright and tidy, with flower stems that reach several feet.
- Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum): cultivars like ‘Northwind’ and ‘Heavy Metal’ stay upright and narrow.
- Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’, ‘Gracillimus’): large and showy, in regions where it is not a problem plant.
Design tips for curb appeal
- Plant in groups. Drifts of three or five of the same grass look more intentional than single plants scattered along the house.
- Layer by height. Low grasses in front, medium behind, tall at corners or against a wall.
- Mix textures and colors. Blue fescue beside gold or purple perennials, or a fine grass against broad-leaved shrubs, gives contrast.
- Think about winter. Many warm-season grasses keep their tan foliage and seed heads, giving the front bed structure when little else is growing.
- Match style. Formal, tidy grasses suit a symmetrical entrance, while airy, flowing ones suit a relaxed cottage or naturalistic style.
Practical points
- Edges and paths: Some grasses, such as Miscanthus, have sharp leaf edges. Keep them away from walkways and wear gloves when cutting them back.
- Cutting back: Do it once a year in late winter or early spring, before new growth. Evergreen types are usually combed out rather than cut hard.
- Fire-prone areas: In regions with wildfire risk, dry grass close to the house can be a hazard. Follow local defensible-space guidance and avoid tall, dry clumps right against walls.
- Invasives: Avoid pampas grass, Japanese blood grass and other grasses flagged locally.
For a wider shortlist of tough sun-lovers, see drought-tolerant ornamental grasses for dry sunny gardens.