Short answer
Yes. Many ornamental grasses do well in pots, provided the container is big enough, drains freely and is watered consistently. Containers are also a handy way to contain spreading types (including bamboo), add height to a patio or balcony, and make a plant easy to move or divide. The trade-offs are that potted grasses dry out faster, use up nutrients sooner and are more exposed to winter cold than grasses planted in the ground.
Good grasses for containers
The following are widely suggested for pots, though always check the size and hardiness of the cultivar. For design ideas, see growing ornamental grasses in containers.
- Fountain grass (Pennisetum): soft, arching and fountain-like. Purple fountain grass is often grown as an annual in cold climates.
- Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’): an upright, narrow vertical accent.
- Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra): a cascading plant that does well in part shade.
- Blue oat grass and blue fescue: compact, silvery-blue plants that suit smaller pots.
- Sedges (Carex): useful for shadier spots and mixed pots.
Very large grasses such as big Miscanthus can be grown in a pot for a while, but they need a large container and will eventually be happier in the ground.
Choosing the pot and potting mix
- Size: Pick a container wide enough for the clump to spread and deep enough for roots. Bigger pots dry out more slowly and are more stable in wind. Tall grasses in a light pot can blow over.
- Drainage: There must be drainage holes. Waterlogged roots are a common cause of failure.
- Mix: Use a free-draining potting mix, sometimes with a little grit or perlite added. Ordinary garden soil in a pot often compacts.
- Material: Plastic and fiberglass are lighter and hold moisture longer. Terracotta looks good but dries quickly and may crack in freezing weather.
Watering and feeding
Potted grasses generally need more watering than those in the ground, particularly in summer. Water deeply when the top of the mix has dried out, rather than giving small sips. Check often in hot weather.
Nutrients wash out of pots over time, so container grasses can benefit from some feeding, unlike many grasses in the ground. A slow-release fertilizer in spring, or a light compost top dressing, is a common approach. Avoid heavy feeding, since too much nitrogen leads to floppy growth. See should you fertilize ornamental grasses.
Winter care
Roots in a pot are less insulated than roots in the ground, and potted plants are often described as hardy to about one or two zones colder than they would be in the ground. Options include moving pots to an unheated garage or shed, sinking the pot into a garden bed, or grouping and wrapping pots against a wall. Keep the mix on the dry side in winter. See overwintering ornamental grasses in the ground and in pots for details.
Dividing and repotting
Over a few years, grasses in pots become root-bound. Signs include roots coming out of the drainage holes, growth slowing, water running straight through, and a dead center. Every two to three years, tip the plant out, divide it, and repot a healthy section in fresh mix. The method is explained in how to divide and transplant ornamental grasses.
Common problems
- Brown leaf tips or wilting: often underwatering.
- Yellowing, mushy crown: often overwatering or poor drainage.
- Plant falls over: pot is too light or too small, or the grass is too tall for the container. See why grasses flop over.
For the bigger picture of year-round care, see our ornamental grass care guide.