Grasses by Zone

What are some good tall grasses for pots?

Good tall grasses for pots include purple fountain grass, Karl Foerster feather reed grass and dwarf Miscanthus. Learn pot size, watering and winter care.

On this page
  1. Tall grasses that work in pots
  2. Compact and medium options for the front of the pot
  3. Choosing and preparing the container
  4. Watering and feeding
  5. Winter care in cold zones
  6. Plants to avoid in pots

Good tall grasses for pots include purple fountain grass, ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass, compact maiden grass cultivars such as ‘Adagio’ or ‘Morning Light’, dwarf switchgrass, Cape rush and bamboo muhly in warm climates. Choose clumping grasses, use a large pot with drainage holes, and remember that grasses in containers are more exposed to winter cold than grasses in the ground.

Tall grasses that work in pots

  • Purple fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’): burgundy leaves and plumes, commonly about 3 to 4 feet tall. It is generally hardy only to about zone 8 or so, so in colder climates it is grown as an annual, which works well for a summer pot. It can be invasive in some warm regions, so check local guidance in frost-free areas.
  • ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass (Calamagrostis × acutiflora): about 4 to 5 feet in bloom, narrow and upright, and good as a “thriller” in a mixed pot. It prefers consistent moisture.
  • Compact maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis): cultivars such as ‘Adagio’ and ‘Morning Light’ are smaller than the species, though still sizeable, and need a big pot. Full-sized Miscanthus is too large for most containers.
  • Dwarf switchgrass (Panicum virgatum, such as ‘Cape Breeze’): upright and airy, a good choice for a sunny pot.
  • Cape rush (Chondropetalum tectorum): a South African plant with reed-like stems and a strong vertical look, for mild climates or a pot that can be moved indoors.
  • Corkscrew rush (Juncus effusus ‘Spiralis’, also sold as ‘Big Twister’): twisting stems, enjoys constant moisture, and works in a pot with a drainage saucer in a sunny to part-shade spot. Heights are moderate rather than truly tall.
  • Bamboo muhly (Muhlenbergia dumosa): can reach about 5 to 7 feet in warm climates, with a fine, feathery look. It is more suited to warmer zones.
  • Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus): fast-growing, sometimes reaching about 4 to 6 feet in a season, and also useful in the kitchen. Treat it as an annual where winters are cold.

Compact and medium options for the front of the pot

If your pot is a combination planting, you can use a tall grass in the center and shorter plants around the edge. Our guide to growing ornamental grasses in containers covers design in more depth. Good partners include dwarf fountain grasses such as ‘Little Bunny’, blue fescue (‘Elijah Blue’), blue oat grass and sedges such as ‘Everillo’ or ‘Ice Dance’. The ‘Everillo’ and ‘Everest’ sedges are described by growers as well suited to containers.

Choosing and preparing the container

  • Size. Use a pot at least 14 to 18 inches across for medium grasses, and larger for taller ones. A bigger pot holds more moisture, supports roots through the season and helps buffer cold.
  • Drainage. Make sure the pot has drainage holes. Use a good-quality potting mix with some grit or bark, not heavy garden soil.
  • Weight and wind. Tall grasses catch the wind. A heavy ceramic or concrete pot is less likely to blow over than lightweight plastic.
  • Sun. Most grasses need at least six hours of sun. Shade options include Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) and some sedges, though they are not tall.

Watering and feeding

Pots dry out much faster than garden beds (see do ornamental grasses do well in pots for the trade-offs). Water deeply whenever the top inch or two of soil is dry, and expect to water daily in hot weather. Feed lightly with a balanced fertilizer in spring. Too much nitrogen can cause floppy growth; see should you fertilize ornamental grasses.

Winter care in cold zones

Roots in a pot are exposed to cold from all sides, so grasses are less hardy in containers than in the ground. A frequently repeated rule of thumb is to choose plants rated for one to two zones colder than yours, or to move the pot to a sheltered, unheated spot such as a garage or against a house wall. Keep the soil from sitting wet and frozen. More detail is in overwintering ornamental grasses in the ground and in pots. Cut deciduous grasses back in late winter or early spring. For hardiness guidance by climate, see our guide to zones 5 and 6.

Plants to avoid in pots

Skip aggressive runners like ribbon grass, which can fill a pot quickly. Giant grasses such as pampas grass and full-size Miscanthus will outgrow most containers, and may be better in the ground. For real height in a pot, clumping bamboo is another option; see growing bamboo in pots and containers.

The complete guide to grasses by zone

Hardy Ornamental Grasses by Zone: Choosing Grasses for Zones 5 and 6
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