Grasses by Zone

Ornamental Grasses for Florida Landscapes: Humidity- and Heat-Tolerant Picks

Humidity- and heat-tolerant ornamental grasses for Florida landscapes, from native muhly and Fakahatchee grass to sea oats, with salt, wet-site and invasive notes.

On this page
  1. Florida conditions
  2. Native grasses first
  3. Other heat-tolerant picks
  4. Salt and coastal sites
  5. Wet sites and pond margins
  6. Grasses to avoid or use carefully
  7. Planting and care

Florida conditions

Florida spans several hardiness zones, roughly 8 in the northern panhandle to 10 or 11 in the far south, so plants that work in Miami may not suit Tallahassee. In general, ornamental grasses in Florida deal with long, hot, humid summers, frequent heavy rain, sandy soils in many areas, and, near the coast, salt spray and wind. Grasses also grow almost year-round, so Florida gardeners usually have to manage them more actively than in colder states.

For other warm-climate options, see our guide to grasses for zones 9 and 10.

Native grasses first

Native grasses are adapted to Florida’s soils, rain and heat, and they support local wildlife. The University of Florida’s IFAS extension highlights these natives for home landscapes:

  • Muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris): a favorite for mass plantings. In fall it produces a haze of pink-purple plumes (see how to grow pink muhly grass). It tolerates drought and salt to a degree, and does best in full sun. A Collier County Master Gardener notes it is used in mass plantings along road medians in Naples.
  • Fakahatchee grass (Tripsacum dactyloides, also called eastern gamagrass): a bold, arching grass of about 5 to 6 feet, for sun to part sun. It tolerates drought but is not salt tolerant, and dwarf selections of about 3 to 4 feet are available.
  • Sea oats (Uniola paniculata): a coastal dune grass used for erosion control that takes salt, wind, poor soil and full sun. It is legally protected in Florida, so do not dig it from the wild. Buy nursery-grown plants. Check state rules for planting on dunes.
  • Elliott’s lovegrass (Eragrostis elliottii): a clumping grass of about 2 feet with blue-gray, slightly weeping leaves. It likes full sun and drought.
  • Sand cordgrass (Spartina bakeri): a tough, spreading grass for moist to wet sites and pond edges. It handles wet feet, drought and some salt, and it spreads, so give it room.
  • River oats (Chasmanthium species): a shade-tolerant native grass with dangling seed heads, suited to moist, shady spots.

Other heat-tolerant picks

  • Bamboo muhly (Muhlenbergia dumosa): a fine-textured, feathery grass that can reach roughly 5 to 7 feet and likes heat. It looks good in raised beds.
  • Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana): large white plumes and fast growth, but it has sharp-edged leaves and is considered invasive in some areas. Check local guidance, and see is pampas grass invasive.
  • Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus): fragrant and edible, but it self-seeds and can spread, so it needs open space.
  • Liriope and mondo grass: grass-like groundcovers used widely in the Southeast for edging and shade. See liriope vs mondo grass.
  • Lomandra: an Australian grass-like plant used in warm-climate landscapes.

Salt and coastal sites

If your property is near the beach or a salt-influenced waterway, choose salt-tolerant grasses: sea oats on dunes, muhly grass and sand cordgrass are better options than Fakahatchee grass. Even salt-tolerant plants appreciate rinsing rainfall and good drainage. Protect new plants from wind while they establish.

Wet sites and pond margins

Florida landscapes often include retention ponds and low spots. Planted on margins, native grasses such as sand cordgrass help hold soil and filter runoff, and they offer food, cover and nesting areas for birds. Rushes and sedges are other options for wet ground. Always check your county’s rules if the pond is regulated.

Grasses to avoid or use carefully

Not every attractive grass is a good idea in Florida’s long growing season:

  • Red or purple fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum) is popular because it tolerates drought and even a light frost, but it is considered invasive in some warm regions. Check the Florida invasive plant lists and ask your extension office before planting.
  • Japanese blood grass is related to cogon grass, a serious invasive weed in the Southeast, and some sources advise avoiding it in the region.
  • Running bamboos spread aggressively. If you want a bamboo look, choose a clumping, tropical species and avoid running types that can “take over.” See running vs clumping bamboo.

Planting and care

Plant at the start of the rainy season or in fall so roots can establish with natural rainfall, and water young plants regularly until established. Mulch to reduce weeds. Most Florida grasses grow in flushes all year, so it is common to prune them to a few inches above the ground in late winter or early spring to refresh the foliage. Warm weather also helps seeds germinate quickly, so watch for seedlings and remove unwanted ones early. Avoid heavy fertilizing, since it makes grasses floppy and encourages disease in humid weather.

The complete guide to grasses by zone

Hardy Ornamental Grasses by Zone: Choosing Grasses for Zones 5 and 6
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