The short answer
Yes, some ornamental grasses grow in shade, but they are a small group. Most ornamental grasses want full sun, and the best plants for shade are often grass-like plants rather than true grasses. These include sedges (Carex), woodrush (Luzula), lilyturf (Liriope) and mondo grass (Ophiopogon). The most reliable choices for part shade are:
- Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra)
- Sedges such as Pennsylvania sedge, Japanese sedge and palm sedge
- Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium)
- Korean feather reed grass (Calamagrostis brachytricha)
- Tufted hair grass (Deschampsia cespitosa)
- Woodrush (Luzula sylvatica)
If you only read one section, make it the next one. The type of shade you have decides which of these will work.
Understand your shade first
“Shade” covers several different conditions, and nurseries label plants differently. As a rough guide, many growers use these terms:
- Part sun / part shade: about 4 to 6 hours of direct sun.
- Shade: less than about 4 hours of direct sun, often dappled light.
- Full or deep shade: little or no direct sun, such as the north side of a building or beneath dense evergreens.
Also think about moisture. Shade under big trees is often dry, because roots take most of the water. Shade beside a downspout, a pond or in a low spot is often moist or wet. A plant that loves one can sulk in the other, so match plants to both light and water.
Watch the spot for a day, or a few days across the season. A bed that is shady in July under a full canopy may be fairly bright in April before the trees leaf out.
Best grasses and grass-like plants for shade
| Plant | Typical size | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) | 1 to 2 ft | Part shade, moist soil | Cascading, bamboo-like leaves; gold forms brighten dark corners |
| Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica) | 6 to 18 in | Dry to average shade | Fine, soft texture; used as a no-mow lawn alternative |
| Japanese sedge (Carex oshimensis, C. morrowii) | 10 to 24 in | Part shade | Evergreen in milder climates; many variegated cultivars |
| Palm sedge (Carex muskingumensis) | 2 to 3.5 ft | Moist to wet shade | Palm-like foliage; tolerates heavier shade |
| Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) | 2 to 5 ft | Light to part shade | Dangling seed heads; can self-seed freely |
| Korean feather reed grass (Calamagrostis brachytricha) | 3 to 4 ft | Part shade, moist soil | Pink-to-silver plumes in late summer and fall |
| Tufted hair grass (Deschampsia cespitosa) | 2 to 4 ft | Part shade, cool and moist | Airy, cloud-like flower heads |
| Woodrush (Luzula sylvatica) | Low basal tufts | Moist, cool shade | Soft tufts of evergreen foliage |
| Autumn moor grass (Sesleria autumnalis) | About 1 ft | Light to part shade | Fine, bright green tufts |
| Liriope and mondo grass | 2 to 24 in | Full sun to deep shade (varies) | Evergreen groundcovers; not true grasses |
Sizes and hardiness vary by cultivar and by source, so check the plant tag for your exact selection.
For detail on individual plants, see our guides to Japanese forest grass, carex varieties for shade and liriope versus mondo grass.
Matching the plant to the spot
Dry shade under trees. Pennsylvania sedge, carnation sedge (Carex flacca), blue fescue and a few others cope with dry shade once established. Water them well for the first year or two, because tree roots compete hard for moisture.
Moist shade. Hakone grass, palm sedge, Korean feather reed grass and tufted hair grass do best where the soil stays evenly moist. For truly wet ground, see our guide to ornamental grasses for wet shade.
Part shade with morning sun. This is the easiest light level. Many of the plants above are happiest here, and it is also where some sun-loving grasses, such as feather reed grass ‘Karl Foerster’, can still do acceptably.
Cold climates. If you garden in zone 5, most of the plants above are hardy, with some exceptions to check. Our guide to ornamental grasses for zone 5 covers hardiness in more detail.
Height. True shade grasses are mostly short to medium. If you want more vertical presence, see shade-tolerant tall grasses, and for smaller spaces see dwarf grasses for landscaping.
Pairing grasses with ferns and other shade plants
Shade grasses look best against plants with a very different leaf shape. The usual companions are:
- Ferns: their feathery fronds contrast with the narrow blades of grasses. Plants commonly recommended for deeper shade include Christmas fern, lady fern, autumn fern and Japanese painted fern. Ostrich fern prefers consistently moist soil.
- Hostas: bold, broad leaves next to fine blades. Gold Hakone grass with a blue-leaved hosta is a classic pairing.
- Heuchera (coral bells): dark or colorful foliage against gold or variegated grasses.
- Astilbe: feathery plumes that echo the texture of grass seed heads.
- Spring bulbs and woodland perennials: grasses fill in as bulb foliage fades.
A simple approach is to use ferns and hostas as the large-scale structure, then repeat one grass or sedge through the bed to tie it together. At the brighter edge of a shade bed, shrubs work too; see pairing ornamental grasses with hydrangeas and flowering shrubs.
Grasses to avoid in shade
Many popular ornamental grasses are sun plants. In shade they tend to grow thin and floppy and flower poorly. These are best kept for sunny spots:
- Miscanthus (maiden grass or silver grass), though some tolerate part shade
- Fountain grass (Pennisetum)
- Pampas grass
- Blue fescue and blue oat grass, which hold their color best in sun
- Switchgrass, big bluestem, little bluestem and other prairie grasses
Also think about spreading habit. Northern sea oats can self-seed freely, carnation sedge spreads by rhizomes, and some liriope forms spread quickly. These plants can be useful, but they are not ideal if you want a tidy, contained clump; see non-invasive ornamental grasses.
Lawn alternatives for shade
If you are hoping to replace a struggling shady lawn, remember that turf grass needs some sun. Fine fescues and some other cool-season lawn grasses are the more shade-tolerant turf options, but they still need filtered light to thrive. Where lawn simply will not grow (see can I grow grass in 100% shade), a groundcover of Pennsylvania sedge, mondo grass or liriope is a common alternative. Our guide to replacing a lawn with ornamental grasses covers the changeover. These plants will not take heavy foot traffic like a mown lawn, so they work best for looking at, not for playing on.
Planting and care
- Timing: plant in spring or early fall so roots can establish before summer heat or winter cold.
- Soil: most shade grasses prefer soil that is rich in organic matter. Work in compost before planting, especially in poor or compacted soil.
- Watering: water regularly through the first year. Established plants under trees may still need extra water in dry spells.
- Mulch: a layer of organic mulch helps hold moisture and keeps roots cool.
- Cutting back: cut back old foliage in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins. Evergreen sedges usually need only a light comb through, or a trim, to remove tired leaves.
- Dividing: divide clumps every few years in spring if they thin out in the center.
Feed lightly, if at all. Rich soil already does most of the work, and too much fertilizer can make clumps floppy.
Where to go next
If you want a single plant to start with, Japanese forest grass is hard to beat for part shade. If deer are a concern, read about deer-resistant grasses for shade. For a quick overview of the basics, see do ornamental grasses grow in the shade?