Quick answer
Many ornamental grasses are suited to Zone 5. Reliable choices include feather reed grass (‘Karl Foerster’), switchgrass, little bluestem, blue fescue, prairie dropseed, dwarf fountain grass ‘Hameln’ and some maiden grass (Miscanthus) cultivars for sun. For shade and part shade, good Zone 5 options include Japanese forest grass, Pennsylvania sedge, Japanese sedges, Korean feather reed grass, tufted hair grass and northern sea oats.
What Zone 5 means for grasses
Zone 5 covers average winter lows of about -20°F to -10°F. Grasses must survive those temperatures, and in a lot of Zone 5 gardens, wet winter soil is as much a problem as cold. Hardiness ratings vary slightly between nurseries and between cultivars, so always check the tag for the cultivar you are buying. When a plant is rated “hardy to zone 5,” it is at the edge of its range, and extra care helps. Our longer guide to hardy ornamental grasses for zones 5 and 6 goes into more detail.
Zone 5 grasses for full sun
| Grass | Approximate size | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Feather reed grass ‘Karl Foerster’ | 3 to 6 ft | Very hardy (often rated zone 3); upright; sun to part shade |
| Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) | 3 to 8 ft depending on variety | Hardy to about zone 4; many colors |
| Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) | 2 to 4 ft | Native; blue-green foliage with red-orange fall color |
| Blue fescue (Festuca glauca) | 6 to 12 in | Often rated to zone 4; evergreen tufts |
| Blue oat grass | About 2 ft | Often rated to zone 4 |
| Dwarf fountain grass ‘Hameln’ | 2 to 3 ft | Often rated zones 5 to 9 |
| Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) | 2 to 3 ft | Fine-textured; native |
| Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis) | 4 to 8 ft depending on cultivar | Many cultivars hardy to zone 5; check local invasiveness |
| Big bluestem and Indian grass | 5 to 8 ft | Native prairie grasses |
Some miscanthus is considered invasive in parts of the United States, so check with your local extension office before planting it. Big bluestem and Indian grass are covered in Midwest and native prairie grasses.
Zone 5 grasses for shade and part shade
- Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra): commonly rated zones 5 to 9 (some sources rate it to zone 4). Add extra mulch in zones 5 and 6. See our Hakonechloa care guide.
- Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica): a native sedge hardy in cold climates, good for dry shade.
- Japanese sedges (‘Everillo’, ‘Everest’, ‘Evergold’): often rated about zones 5 to 9, so they sit at the cold edge. Read about Carex for shade.
- Korean feather reed grass: often rated zones 4 to 9; part shade.
- Tufted hair grass: often rated zones 4 to 9; prefers cool, moist conditions.
- Northern sea oats: often rated zone 3 or 5 to 8 depending on the source; self-seeds.
- Bottlebrush grass: native to much of the northeastern United States and often rated zone 4 or 5.
- Liriope: Liriope muscari is commonly rated zones 5 to 10, L. spicata zone 4 or 5. Mondo grass is less hardy; see liriope vs mondo grass.
Grasses to be cautious with
- Pampas grass: common pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) is generally rated for zones 7 to 10. Some sellers offer “hardy pampas” for Zone 5, but results vary, so research the exact plant before buying, and see is pampas grass invasive.
- Mexican feather grass: often rated only to zone 6.
- Pink muhly grass: typically rated zones 6 to 9, so marginal in Zone 5.
- Black mondo grass: one grower notes it does best in protected spots.
If you want to try a marginal grass, plant it in a sheltered location, mulch the crown, and treat it as an experiment.
Planting and winter care in Zone 5
- Plant in spring so warm-season grasses such as switchgrass and miscanthus have the whole season to root before winter. Early fall planting suits many cool-season grasses, but give them enough time to settle in before the ground freezes.
- Drainage matters. Wet, cold soil in winter is more likely to kill a grass than cold alone.
- Leave foliage over winter. The old growth protects the crown and adds winter interest. Cut it back in late winter or early spring before new growth starts.
- Mulch newly planted and marginally hardy grasses in late fall, but avoid piling mulch against the crown. See overwintering ornamental grasses.
- Divide crowded clumps in spring every few years.
For a broader look at grasses for low light, see our guide to ornamental grasses for shade and part shade.