What native prairie grasses are
Native prairie grasses are the species that grew in the tallgrass and mixed-grass prairies of central North America, long before lawns and gardens. They are mostly deep-rooted clumping or sod-forming grasses adapted to hot summers, cold winters, wind, drought and occasional fire. In a garden that makes them tough, low-input plants, and many are attractive in their own right.
You will often hear about the “big four” prairie grasses:
- Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii)
- Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
- Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans)
- Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)
Together they define tallgrass prairie. All four are available as garden selections, and several have named cultivars bred for color or a tidier shape. The Midwest spans roughly zones 3 to 7, so check the hardiness rating on any cultivar; our guides to zones 3 and 4 and zones 7 and 8 cover the two ends of that range.
Best tall grasses for Kansas, Missouri and the Midwest
- Big bluestem is the tallest of the four, commonly reaching 5 feet or more, with turkey-foot seed heads and reddish-bronze fall color. Cultivars like ‘Blackhawks’ and ‘Holy Smoke’ are often chosen for deeper color. It does best with full sun and room.
- Indian grass grows about 5 to 7 feet and turns golden-yellow in fall. ‘Golden Sunset’ is a selection from a northern breeding program.
- Switchgrass ranges from about 3 to 6 feet and handles both moist and dry soils reasonably well. ‘Shenandoah’ has red-tinged foliage, and ‘Northwind’ and ‘Heavy Metal’ are known for upright, stiff habits that resist flopping.
- Little bluestem is shorter, about 2 to 3 feet in many cultivars, and is often the first choice for lean, dry sites. Its fall color runs from copper to red. It is widely used in Kansas landscapes, and Kansas State extension and local arboretums recommend it.
For tall ornamental grasses in Missouri, the University of Missouri extension also lists non-native options, including maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis), plume grass and feather reed grass. Giant Chinese silver grass can reach 10 feet or more and make a screen, but needs a lot of space.
Short native grasses
Not every native grass is a giant. For small beds, edges and rock gardens, consider these shorter selections:
- Blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis): about 1 to 2 feet, with horizontal, eyelash-shaped seed heads; very drought tolerant. ‘Blonde Ambition’ is a popular selection.
- Sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula): up to about 2 feet, with oat-like spikes hanging along one side of the stem.
- Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis): a fine, fountain-like mound about 2 to 3 feet, with fragrant flowers.
- Little bluestem cultivars: compact selections such as ‘The Blues’ and ‘Little Red Fox’ stay smaller than the species. See little bluestem varieties.
- Purple love grass (Eragrostis spectabilis): a low clump producing a purple haze in late summer, suited to dry, sandy or rocky soils.
- Tufted hairgrass (Deschampsia cespitosa): fine, mounded foliage about 16 to 24 inches that handles sun to part shade.
Shade-tolerant natives
Most prairie grasses want full sun, but a few natives handle shade. Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) is a woodland grass that tolerates light shade and self-seeds readily. Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica) is a native, grass-like groundcover for shade. Tufted hairgrass tolerates part shade as well. In heavy shade, expect less vigor.
Non-native grasses that work in the Midwest
Several garden grasses from other regions perform well and are sold widely. These include feather reed grass, maiden grass, and dwarf fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides, which is native to Asia, so the answer to “Is fountain grass native?” is no, at least not to North America). Purple fountain grass is hardy only to about zone 8, so Midwestern gardeners treat it as an annual. True pampas grass is not reliably hardy in the Midwest.
Grasses to avoid
A few ornamental grasses are known for spreading beyond where they are planted (our list of non-invasive ornamental grasses covers safer clumpers):
- Ribbon grass (Phalaris arundinacea var. picta) spreads aggressively by rhizomes. Extension sources suggest sinking a bottomless container to contain it, but many gardeners skip it.
- Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis) can self-seed and has naturalized in parts of the eastern US. Look for sterile or low-seeding cultivars, and check local guidance.
- Japanese blood grass is related to a serious invasive weed, and some regions advise against it.
- Common reed (Phragmites australis) is invasive and should not be planted.
When in doubt, choose a native species from a local source.
Natives for wildlife
Native grasses give cover and nesting material for birds, and their seed heads provide seed through fall and winter. Many also serve as host plants for butterflies and skippers, and clumping prairie grasses leave space between plants for wildflowers. For wildlife value, leave stems standing over winter and plant a mix of grasses with native flowers such as coneflower and black-eyed Susan. See perennials to plant with ornamental grasses.
Planting and cutting back
Plant in full sun in spring (or early fall in milder parts of the Midwest). Native grasses tolerate clay, sand and drought once established, though young plants need regular water for the first year or two. Avoid rich soil and heavy fertilizer, which cause tall grasses to flop.
Should native grasses be cut back? In a garden, yes, once a year. Leave the foliage standing through winter for wildlife and winter interest, then cut back to about 4 to 6 inches in late winter or early spring, before new shoots emerge. Tall clumps are easier to cut with hedge shears or pruners after being tied into a bundle. In large meadows, mowing or burning can substitute, but burning requires local rules and experience. If you are turning turf into prairie, see how to replace a lawn with ornamental grasses.
Looking for the full range of options? Our pillar guide to hardy grasses for zones 5 and 6 places many of these plants in context.