Is it right for you?
Ornamental grasses can replace some or all of a lawn, but they work differently. They form clumps rather than turf, they are not designed for regular foot traffic, and they look best as a planned garden with paths. A lawn replacement is mostly a one-time effort followed by an annual cut-back, but in the first year or two you will need to water and weed. Check your local regulations or homeowner association rules before removing turf, and avoid species considered invasive where you live; non-invasive clumping grasses are the safer choice.
Step 1: Plan the area
- Decide which parts of the lawn you want to keep, such as a play area or a mown path.
- Map sun and shade. Most ornamental grasses prefer full sun, so put shade-tolerant sedges or Hakone grass in shaded areas. See good ornamental grasses for shade.
- Plan paths of stepping stones, mulch or gravel (see how to lay pebbles in a garden) so you can walk through and maintain the area. Lawn alternatives generally tolerate light traffic at best.
- Sketch layers: low grasses at edges, mid-height in the middle, tall at the back or center. See landscaping with ornamental grasses.
Step 2: Remove the lawn
Common methods include:
- Cutting and lifting sod: quick, but heavy work for large areas. Compost the turf or reuse it elsewhere.
- Smothering (sheet mulching): mow low, cover with overlapping cardboard or several layers of newspaper, then add several inches of mulch or compost. Leave it for a season or at least several months so the grass dies.
- Solarizing: cover with clear plastic during hot, sunny weather to kill turf and weed seeds. It works best in hot climates.
- Herbicide: some people use it, but follow the label carefully and local rules.
Whichever route you pick, deal with perennial weeds like bindweed or Bermuda grass thoroughly, as they will return through young plantings.
Step 3: Choose the grasses
Pick species that suit your climate, soil and mature size. Some options:
- Hameln fountain grass and little bluestem for compact plantings.
- Feather reed grass and switchgrass for height and structure.
- Blue fescue and sedges for low, textured fill.
For a calmer look, use a few grasses repeatedly. For low upkeep, see the best low maintenance ornamental grass. Combine them with perennials for color, as in perennials to plant with ornamental grasses.
Step 4: Plant and space
Plant in spring or early summer for warm-season grasses, and spring or fall for cool-season types, depending on your climate. Space plants roughly at their mature width, or slightly closer for faster coverage. Dig the hole about as deep as the root ball and a bit wider, set the crown at the soil surface and water in well. For comparison, Garden Organic suggests planting low ground covers about 30 cm (about a foot) apart so they knit together, though grasses usually need more room.
Step 5: Mulch and weed
Spread 2 to 3 inches of mulch around plants, keeping it off the crowns. Mulch holds moisture and suppresses weeds while the grasses fill in. Expect to hand-weed during the first season or two until the planting closes up.
Step 6: Water through the first year
Water deeply and regularly while plants establish, tapering as they mature. Many grasses are drought tolerant later, but they need help at first.
Paths and edges
Define the planted area with edging so the remaining lawn stays neat and the grasses do not sprawl. Allow arching foliage extra clearance along paths.
Setting expectations
The planting will look sparse in the first year and fuller in the second and third. Cut back deciduous grasses to a few inches in late winter. Trends in lawn reduction are covered in landscaping trends for 2026, and for a smaller-scale version, see small ornamental grasses for borders.