Grass Design

What is the best low maintenance ornamental grass?

There is no single best low maintenance ornamental grass, but feather reed grass, Hameln fountain grass, blue fescue, switchgrass and sedges are easy choices.

On this page
  1. Short answer
  2. What low maintenance means
  3. Top picks
  4. Maintenance routine
  5. Ones that need more work

Short answer

No single grass is best everywhere, because “low maintenance” depends on your climate, sun and soil. But a few widely grown choices are known for being easygoing: feather reed grass ‘Karl Foerster’, dwarf fountain grass ‘Hameln’, blue fescue, switchgrass and sedges. In warmer zones, pink muhly grass is another popular, low-fuss option.

What low maintenance means

Look for grasses that:

  • need only one cut-back a year
  • tolerate drought once established
  • do not need staking or frequent division
  • do not self-seed aggressively
  • are left alone by deer and rabbits, as most grasses generally are

Top picks

  • Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’): an upright grass that was the first ornamental grass named Perennial Plant of the Year (2001). It is described as undemanding and tolerant of clay and compacted soil. It is sterile, so it does not seed around.
  • Dwarf fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’): compact, with reliable plumes and fall color, for zones 5 to 9 according to many nurseries. See small ornamental grasses.
  • Blue fescue (Festuca glauca): a tough, low mound for sunny, well-drained sites. It is often short-lived, so plan to replace or divide every few years (see why blue fescue dies in the center).
  • Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) cultivars such as ‘Northwind’: deep-rooted and drought tolerant, with strong upright form.
  • Sedges (Carex): many are evergreen and suit shade, and need little more than tidying.
  • Little bluestem: a prairie native for sun and poor soil, with red fall color.

Maintenance routine

  1. Water regularly in the first season so roots establish.
  2. Cut deciduous grasses to 4 to 6 inches in late winter or early spring, before new growth starts.
  3. Rake or comb evergreen types to remove dead blades instead of cutting hard.
  4. Divide only if the center thins or the clump outgrows its space.
  5. Skip heavy feeding. Too much fertilizer can cause floppy growth.

Ones that need more work

Some grasses require more attention: those that seed heavily, such as northern sea oats in some regions and some Miscanthus sinensis cultivars, plus large, fast-spreading plants and anything running like many bamboos. Grasses outside their hardiness zone also need winter protection. Check local invasive lists before planting.

For ideas on where to use these plants, see front-yard grasses and landscaping with ornamental grasses. For tall options with little upkeep, see tall grasses for privacy.

The complete guide to grass design

Landscaping With Ornamental Grasses: Design Principles and Plant Pairings
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